It is customary for Ralph Lauren, the patriarch of American designers, to close New York Fashion Week in style. And his AW16 show was no different.
Ralph has a big few years ahead. 2017 sees the brand celebrating its 50th anniversary, but whilst celebrating the past, they are also looking to the future. The designer stepped down as CEO of his own label last year, making way for Stefan Larsson, former H&M executive and president of American high street label Old Navy. Quite a departure for the luxury fashion house, and which only begged one question: Will Ralph Lauren turn to the fast-fashion, See-No-Buy-Now model, which so many of his counterparts are shifting to? And indeed they are; subtly at the bottom of the show notes the brand announced that come Friday morning you will be able to shop a “curated collection” of the runway looks.
Lauren showed in one of Manhattan’s many warehouses. But this wasn’t any old warehouse. The set resembled a grand private residence; the runway was paved with limestone flagstones while mahogany door surrounds and an oversized lantern made the 500 person
Of all the Kardashian-Jenner-Wests on social media, the one who takes the crown across all channels is 18-year-old Kylie Jenner. And the girl with the trademark pout is quickly rising in the fashion ranks. Having walked in brother-in-law Kanye West’s Yeezy shows the past two seasons, this time around Jenner took a break from the catwalk to sit front row and launch her line with runway regular and older sister Kendall. Here, Jenner documents a typical Fashion Week day in the life—in her life, anyway: from fittings, pap attacks, and Today show appearances to the view from the Madison Square Garden front row. Try to keep up, if you can.
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If there’s one thing Victoria Beckham is good at – aside from being a very good designer – it is being a walking, talking advertisement for her brand. In the run-up to her New York Fashion Week show, the 41-year-old treated the daily exit of her Manhattan hotel like her very own runway, showcasing languid skirts and cosy, oversize knits all of her own creation to the barrage of photographers all waiting to get their daily snap.
On her feet were a selection of high-heeled boots, court shoes… but the day before the AW16 show, something happened: Victoria Beckham wore trainers.
Now Victoria Beckham in trainers – we’re talking bright white, box-fresh Adidas Originals Superstar sneakers and not the running track sort – really is a talking point. This is the woman who once wore wedge-heeled sneakers to a baseball match so loathe was she to wear flats, and visited a theme park with a hoard of young children in stilettos.Naturally, she looked far more effortless as she stepped out in her new Adidas sneaks than in her vertiginous heels, yet still elegant enough to send a message that yes, she might be wearing trainers – but
On the eve of London Fashion Week, two very British names came together to toast what is set to be one of the most anticipated collaborations of 2016: Alexa Chung for Marks & Spencer.
The 32-year-old model, TV presenter, Vogue contributor and taste-maker unveiled a preview of what’s in store from her collaboration with the 132-year-old retailer.
Having delved through the M&S archives located within Leeds University, Chung has put her spin on 31 pieces from yesteryear, adding modern touches and re-thinking them in contemporary fabrics. Last night’s showcase unveiled eight pieces from the range, which it was confirmed will launch on April 13 online and in 66 stores across the country. A spokesperson for the retailer revealed that some 11,000 names had already registered interest on its website.
So what can we expect?
Chung, whose personal style is the subject of mass reverence, has veered towards safe, wardrobe classics but with a twist. A pair of wide-leg, canary yellow trousers from 1972 have been re-imagined in navy blue, and a blazer in the same colour circa 1989 for 2016 holds none of the power shoulder connotations; instead, Chung has presented us with a versatile,
Fashion editors spend two months a year at fashion week: that’s approximately 50 days of living out of a suitcase, and facing a daily barrage of street style photographers. All of which means immaculate planning goes into their fashion week wardrobes. Immaculate planning that throws up some useful wardrobe tips when you’re thinking about how to update your wardrobe….Katherine Ormerod, Editorial Director at Lyst, decides what she’s going to spend on clothes that season – and then spends three months scoping out her purchases so she gets maximum return for her money. “I spend probably about £1,500 a season for fashion week – but not all in one go,” she tells us. “I spread it out over three months or so, and really, really think about about what I’m buying. I keep money aside for the sales, but never touch my savings pot.”To ensure her pieces have longevity, Katherine plans ahead. “For the spring/summer season, which is often bitterly cold, it’s all about the coats and boots which are obviously not the cheapest purchases,” she says. “A lot of my buys come from the sales – this season I’ve bought three coats (Maje, Sandro, Claudie Pierlot) and two pairs of boots (Dorothee Schumacher, Acne)
Stripes are back in a big way for spring, and this season, it’s all about making an impact. Horizontal, vertical, diagonal; there’s plenty of ways to work the trend, whatever your sartorial preference or body shape. With so many new rules, the trend may seem a little daunting. Bur fear not, for we’ve done all the hard work for you with our ultimate guide to getting your stripes right.
Invest in a classic breton
No wardrobe should be without one, and the chicest style to go for is undoubtedly the classic navy and white combo. Petit Bateau has it covered with this nautical number. The neutral shade will work perfectly with everything in your current wardrobe, meaning you’ll get maximum wear from your new investment. Team with navy culottes and trainers, or layer under a denim dress.
Incorporate primary colours
You can always depend on those sassy street stylers to provide plenty of new season inspiration. Sofie Valkiers paired two equally statement striped pieces together for maximum impact, both in bold primary shades. Take your cue from Sofie and opt for Lego-inspired tones on one key piece, keeping the look wearable by mixing with sleek separates in neutral shades.
With the Oscars almost upon us, your office water cooler/whatsapp group chats are inevitably going to be dominated by debates about the looks you’ve loved, whose leg/ shoulder/ right elbow has the biggest Twitter following or who should perhaps consider swapping stylists. But how about throwing some fascinating historical references into the mix to add a little intellectual rigour to proceedings.
We quizzed Claire Smith, curator of posters and designs’ at the BFI National Archive and Keith Lodwick, theatre and performance curator at the V&A, to find out answers to the questions you’d always wanted to ask, and those you’ve probably never even thought of before.
Swot up now, bask in the glory of your newfound knowledge later.
Who is the most influential red carpet designer?
You might have expected it to be Christian Dior or Valentino, but in many ways, Edith Head had the most influence on the Oscar red carpet. Head was one of the most prolific and decorated costume designers in the film industry, and was nominated for an unsurpassed 35 Oscars, winning eight of them.
Edith Head dressed Grace Kelly in a mint-green gown for her 1955 Best Actress win, one of the best-loved Oscars dresses of all time. She was the
Whatever the season, US Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour sticks to her fashion week uniform of Chanel tweed twinsets and Marni printed dresses, but as New York Fashion Week drew to a close at last night’s Marc Jacobs show, she made a political statement with her look. The 66-year-old London-born editor sat in the front row proudly sporting a white Marc Jacobs t-shirt with Hillary Clinton’s face on it in red, white and blue sequins
Presidential candidate Clinton is selling three Made for History t-shirts for $45 each on her website, which have been created by New York Fashion Week designers Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs and Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. Her site says that the tops are “designed to help elect the first woman president of the United States, and Democrats from coast to coast.”
Clinton certainly seems to have the fashion industry in her corner, as top model Kendall Jenner was also wearing the same Hillary t-shirt backstage at Marc Jacobs.
As for the designer himself, Jacobs told Vogue.com: “My support for Hillary is grounded on our long-standing shared belief in equality. I am proud to share this T-shirt as a champion for equal rights, for the progress we have made, and for the hope
New York kicks off the global womenswear calendar for autumn/winter 2016, and its fashion week started on 10 February, but with what? A glut of shows proposing disparate messages, an overwhelming mêlée that, hopefully, will settle down once we lurch back across the Atlantic and begin to unpick everything. But perhaps it won’t. New York’s mishmash of shows reflects the industry right now: confused and confusing.
Over the past few weeks a number of designers have announced changes to their selling and showing schedules. Tom Ford dropped out of New York’s calendar: he will now show in September as his winter styles become available to purchase in store. Conversely, the Proenza Schouler label, headed by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, will release eight styles immediately after their show on February. And in September, Tommy Hilfiger will release a collection called TommyxGigi, with model Jelena Noura “Gigi” Hadid, which will be available immediately. “It’s like releasing an album,” Hilfiger told the Business of Fashion website, shortly before the fashion week began, featuring shows by Rihanna and Kanye West.
And just as the advent of MP3 and iTunes irrevocably changed the music industry, it seems the fashion industry
It was minus sixteen degrees in New York on 14 February, with a wind sharp enough to flay the skin off your face, as Victoria Beckham’s autumn/winter 2016 show opened with an outfit of full tweedy skirt below strapless bustier, toned midriff exposed through a chopped-out piece over the navel. Authorities were bringing the homeless into shelters given the bitter cold; Mayor Bill de Blasio advised New Yorkers, officially, to stay indoors, as the fashion press sprinted into the old Cunard Building to see Beckham’s lightweight separates and unlined coats. I reiterate, this was a winter show. Is Beckham disconnected from reality? Or is she just tackling a different one – the reality of today’s fashion consumer, whose demands seldom extend to insulation against polar vortexes and instead wants things that are light and easy to pack but visually impactful? I suspect the latter.
Victoria Beckham – woman and brand – is opening her second store, in Hong Kong. By which we can draw the presumption, frequently challenged, that people are actually buying these clothes, and it isn’t just a vanity project. I mean, it is a smidge of a vanity project – but isn’t any designer
New York fashion week has a weight issue. I’m not talking about the models – this isn’t the Daily Mail. I mean in terms of the show schedule, and the fact that many heavy-hitters are crammed into the final 24 hours – Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs before the red-eye.
The resulting imbalance can make the week feel… well, weak. Days loom relatively empty, splattered with the occasional recognisable name but otherwise a lot of padding. Those boldface labels? Jason Wu, who does double-duty as head of Hugo Boss; Thom Browne, who makes ker-azy giant dresses in a vaguely McQueen mould; the Rodarte label by the sisters Mulleavy, who have many high-profile friends who wear their art-pop, homespun stuff. I once went to their Paris showroom and was shown around by Kirsten Dunst in lieu of a sales manager. She’s a friend, she popped in.
Given the aforementioned schedule, one of the things I do more of in New York than anywhere else is previews. They’re useful, and pretty special: you get time one-on-one with a designer, to chat and look at
It’s a higgledy-piggledy fashion system out there. But hasn’t it always been? Hasn’t the outside world always been baffled by the idea of hawking coats in July and bikinis in January, while in fashion it somehow, somewhere, makes perfect sense?
Hence, in a spring polar vortex, New York designers showed autumn/winter 2016 clothes that were sleeveless, backless, sometimes simply worthless. Not that they lacked value monetarily, of course – they all cost a lot – but you wondered what they added to the sum whole of what people want to wear today. Because that’s what fashion is about, if you’re up on your soapbox and tub-thumping – it’s about showing something different, something new. It’s about setting the pace, not following the herd. The latter, of course, is the easier option, delivering sleek commercial product, streamlined and dumb.
“Commercial” and “product” are two words you hear a lot in the USA, where fashion is big on business and often short on creativity. That said, there were a few shining moments in New York’s autumn/winter calendar that didn’t feel like they came about by sifting through a checklist of pre-ordained and pre-packaged trends decided months in advance.
A chunky, ribbed, stone-coloured polo-neck jumper with leather elbow patches, grey schoolboy trousers, white trainers, no socks, a centre parting and a ponytail. What Victoria Beckham chooses to wear to present her catwalk collection isn’t just celebrity trivia, it’s salient fashion news, because the designer’s personal wardrobe, as featured in paparazzi pictures and gossip websites, underpins the Victoria Beckham brand. Backstage before her show in New York on Sunday, she said with the knowing pragmatism of a self-made woman: “It’s just what I want to wear now but in a fresh way.”
Judging by her latest collection, what Beckham wants to wear now are corsets as daywear, checks with intentionally unfinished threads and shut-out-the-world coats. These corsets are not, it must be stressed, shiny items which speak tackily of Valentine’s, nor a relic of the Posh Spice brand, which is gathering dust somewhere in the noughties. Instead, they are wool bodices worn with hefty midi-length skirts that swish and land above bare calves, accompanied by flat, pointed, buckled shoes. Beckham said she had wanted the collection to recall where she started from as a designer, those 10 corset dresses which formed the pillars of a fashion business
The Italian fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana appear to be trying to make amends for derogatory remarks they made last year about same-sex couples who have children with the release of a line of handbags and T-shirts celebrating gay and diverse families.
Gabbana’s Instagram account carried photographs of the new line, including a black handbag depicting two fathers and three children. Another photograph showed models wearing T-shirts with similar images, including of families with two mother
t was a starkly different message than one that landed the pair – who used to be a couple – in hot water last year. In an interview in March with the Italian magazine Panorama, Dolce made inflammatory remarks about gay families, saying he was not convinced by what he called “synthetic children” and “wombs for hire”.
“We oppose gay adoptions,” Dolce said in the interview. “The only family is the traditional one.” He went on to describe children born through IVF as “children of chemistry, synthetic children. Rented uterus, semen chosen from a catalogue.”
The comments infuriated Elton John, who has two children born with the help of IVF and a surrogate. After initially calling
Let’s get straight to the point here, because this is huge news. Barbie has a bum, and thighs that meet in the middle. The doll whose name has become a byword for unrealistic body ideals now comes normal-sized.
Barbie has released three new Barbie body shapes: tall, curvy and petite. Tall is, well, taller than the original, and appears to have broader shoulders. Petite is basically Cheryl Tweedy-Cole-Fernandez-Versini-whatever-she’s-called. But it’s all about Curvy.
Curvy Barbie is still slim. She has a flat tummy and slender arms and her eyes seem to be wider than her ankles. But her plastic legs have a bit of meat on them, and she’s got a bit of a soft Gigi Hadid thing going on around the jawline.
After a survey on the fashion desk, we have decided that we particularly like the vibe of Everyday Chic Curvy Barbie, who has boldly teamed distressed cropped jeans with lace-up black brogues. We’re not wild about her loveheart necklace or plastic handbag, but then we’re not eight years old, so what do we know? Second place goes to So Sporty Barbie, a kind of Rihanna-lite in Balmain-ish mesh vest dress and open-toe
Matteo Renzi has been mocked for his personal fashion foibles in the past, but the Italian prime minister will nevertheless brave the tough crowd of Milan fashion week later this month, becoming the first premier to open the event.
While Renzi is not expected to take a spin down the runway, the move is seen as an important show of support for the beleaguered industry, which has been hit by a slowdown in the Middle East and Russia and a drop-off in the Chinese market.
Renzi’s decision also reflects the image he consistently seeks to portray of himself: that he is a dynamic leader and the face of a modernising Italy. Indeed, he has often used fashion to try to make a statement – from the leather jacket he donned for Chi magazine while he was mayor of Florence (some said he was channelling the Fonz) to the “jeans and no-tie” look that became a symbol of his desire to shake-up the political establishment.
Last year Renzi was criticised by the Corriere della Sera newspaper for wearing trousers that were far too short, exposing nearly two inches of his blue socks, at a meeting with
Fashion Week? There were cloaks, glitzy Deco gowns, ’20s finger waves, neo-goth eye makup, oversize polka dots, and a Lady Gaga appearance, all grounded with teetering platform shoes that could make even Susanne Bartsch balk. Maybe the best way to sum it up is to say that Jacobs really, truly knows how to put on a show, and at the end of an especially confused New York Fashion Week, a little haute drama is something his audience was craving. Good thing Jacobs can turn it out by the ton. Here, the 11 talking points from Marc Jacobs’s complex Fall 2016 collection. Check back later for the full skinny on the voluminous affair in Nicole Phelps’s review.1. The star wattage in Jacobs’s front row could power a small country. Sandra Bernhard, Juliette Lewis, Christina Ricci, Kiernan Shipka, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Emily Ratajkowski, Rachel Feinstein, Debi Mazar, Natasha Lyonne, CL, and Milk all sat in Jacobs’s front row.2. The interior of the Park Avenue Armory was transformed into a lacquered white circular room with stadium seating, where models emerged from one side and walked around the periphery in a circle.3. The show began with a sound any iPhone user would instantly
As fashion’s crush on tech looks more and more like the real thing, we sent Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, and Gigi Hadid to Silicon Valley to meet the moguls behind the madness.
At Facebook’s sprawling campus in Menlo Park, California, Karlie Kloss is teaching Instagram CEO Kevin Systrom to smize. A few minutes later, as they prepare for the photo shoot on these pages, Systrom and Kendall Jenner find they agree that “Kanye Doing Things” is pretty much the best Instagram account ever.
As Karlie, Kendall, and the other so-called Instagirls make abundantly clear, social media have transformed fashion. “Tech is about communication,” says the Balmain creative director, Olivier Rousteing. “In the past, fashion has been able to communicate to only one small clique. But with social media, fashion can go pop.”
Systrom agrees. “I think this represents a revolution in the fashion industry,” he says. “Designers understand the power of being open—and whether it’s fashion or politics, a closed system always loses to an open system.”
The revolution has found foot soldiers across Silicon Valley. Unlike Instagram, whose users can curate their reality, the year-old Periscope dares its broadcasters to strive for unvarnished
Wizkid is pretty much the biggest thing in Nigerian pop, which itself seems to advance on the global music stage almost as quickly as the country’s economy, one of the fastest growing in the world. He scored a massive smash last year with “Ojuelegba,” an insatiable rags-to-riches hit with a shoulder-shrugging Afrobeat, which inspired Drake to jump on a remix (the two linked up after expressing mutual admiration over Instagram). “Ojuelegba” is prime and perfect Afropop, characterized by a shuffling, whistling charisma, an elegant rhythm, and a message of positivity and parties. It is distinctly Nigerian, yes, but also—in the way that all songs that worm their way around the world are—an inspirational anthem for many.
Wizkid, who at 25 years old already adorns Pepsi ads in his native country, has become almost as known for his trendsetting style as his sound, and his is a thoughtful and fun approach to wardrobe: clean lines and minimalism; a mix of fresh streetwear with traditional Nigerian clothes; and bold, bright accessories. When we Skype, he has paired a tunic tailored in his hometown of Lagos with a loose sweatshirt and big, bulky sneakers, an outfit that epitomizes his blend